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4:03 pm April 26, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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| posts 835 |  
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Does any one have, or have access to a pipe bender, preferably hydraulic. Im on my own for the tie-rod and getting it strait again
Thanks
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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5:25 pm April 26, 2010
| Bucko
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ive got one
wich way is it bent? sometrimes u can strap um to a tree abd pull it back out if it has gone strate back
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6:05 pm April 26, 2010
| Bucko
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bending it back will just be atemp sloution you know that right? you probly wont get it back exatly right
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10:09 pm April 26, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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| posts 835 |  
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thanks for the suggestion, but I actually got it. used the weight of the jeep, a jack, and a block of wood.
its strait to the eye, and should still be strong considering the way I did it, and what its made out of. as long as I dont try that crazy stunt again. I should be READY TO RIPP
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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9:19 am April 27, 2010
| notoriousDUG
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| Mall Crawler | posts 214 | |
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It is not strong, it is bent and once something is bent no matter how straight you get it you will never regain the origional strength; period.
If you want to run it as is for a while weld a chunk of angle over it to regain rigidity otherwise you are going to bend it again.
Also, don't forget to re-align it because even if it straight to the eye chances are it is not straight to the world.
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5:23 pm April 27, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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| posts 835 |  
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its ERW DOM tubing. its not the stock set-up. (not the use of "tie-rod" and I drive a XJ)
BUT! The tube will still get toucher tested before it goes to the Badlands
AND the jeep will be aligned properly.
(and strait to the world gives me death wobble, for a 231 t-case setup, you would want a slight toe-in due to the front wheels being a "drag" which will pull them strait while driving on the highway)
I have to call you out on something that is bent back isnt strong. Most metal will hold a memory of its original state at a micro level. which is why they can straiten frames with a puller after a collision, and retain the original strength of the frame.
as long as the tube isnt kinked (which I made sure it wasn't) it will hold its strength.
not to mention that this jeep might end up being my dd as soon as I get the money for a trail rig. Im not worried
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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5:51 pm April 27, 2010
| Bucko
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mark it with paint and next time it bends i bet it gose where it has gone now and why dom tube that isant that strong try solid bars them things are awsum
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5:57 pm April 27, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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| posts 835 |  
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its got a good nick in the powder coat that I touched up. and it bent right in the middle. if its going to bend, thats where it will bend, but I bent it up this time, not back. so it still has a good chance for running into things on the trail. but it will eventually get replaced I imagine, im just super short on cash
and solid is what is stock one is. and I would have snapped that in half.
also a solid bar that thick would be an issue while steering. I would need a much stronger shock to sustain it. the DOM keeps the weight down and the strength up
and tube is much more reliable, why do you thing they make roll cages out of it
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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6:25 pm April 27, 2010
| notoriousDUG
| | Chicago | |
| Mall Crawler | posts 214 | |
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Electric Stooge said:
its ERW DOM tubing. its not the stock set-up. (not the use of "tie-rod" and I drive a XJ)
BUT! The tube will still get toucher tested before it goes to the Badlands
AND the jeep will be aligned properly.
(and strait to the world gives me death wobble, for a 231 t-case setup, you would want a slight toe-in due to the front wheels being a "drag" which will pull them strait while driving on the highway)
I have to call you out on something that is bent back isnt strong. Most metal will hold a memory of its original state at a micro level. which is why they can straiten frames with a puller after a collision, and retain the original strength of the frame.
as long as the tube isnt kinked (which I made sure it wasn't) it will hold its strength.
not to mention that this jeep might end up being my dd as soon as I get the money for a trail rig. Im not worried
It does not matter what kind of tubing it is, it is not as strong as it was prior ot being bent out of, and then back into, shape; this is a basic property of pretty much all metal.
If you require toe-in to have a stable ride at speed then you have other issues in your front end. Toe is not supposed to be the adjusment that helps keep things centered and 'pulled' (incedentily toe in does not create a feeling of extrra stability by pulling anything, it is actually pushing the tires in opposing directions increasing drag, tire wear and fuel use.) straight; that is the job of caster, you know, like the catser wheel on a chopping cart. Your alignment should be no different for a 231 as from any other t-case and I would like you to show me where it is published otherwise; I have aligned numerous Jeeps and found that they are perfectly OK with minimal to zero toe.
A pulled frame is not as strong as it was before it was pulled back into shape. Materials, with the exception of a few low memory plastics, do not retain some magic memory of their origional chape to which they can be returned In fact any metal that has been bent will experiance stretching or shrinking; this is what makes it so hard to pop a bad dent back to the oridional shape because the steel is stretched and there is no too much material to assume the origional shape which leads to waves in the area where. this problem is why there is such a thing as shrinking discs and realy old body manuals will show you how to remove dents with a torch and a damp rag (It really works on stuff built like a tank in the 40's!). This is also why beniding angle iorn or any flanged sheet requires a shrinker or stretcher depending in if it is an inside or outside bend.
It is completely untrue that the tube will hold it's origional strength after being bent; show me where you can find info to the contrary.
Listen, I get that you hate me and I get that this is not what you want to hear but it does not change the fact that it is true. You need to get over your ego and realize that you don't actually know everything; even in the short time I have been on this site I have seen you troubleshoot things in the wrong directions and otherwise prove that while you may be mechanically inclined and intelligent you lack a lot of experiance and refuse to listen to anyone who does not share your views.
How many tie rods have you bent, repaired and re-repaired? When your count passes 7 or 8 then come and tell me how wrong I am.
How many sets of steering linkage have you built and then run into rocks without serious damage? When you do 4 or 5 then tell me how wrong I am.
How long have you been getting paid to build things ot of steel or repair stuff made out of steel? Get a few years under your belt and come back and tell me how wrong I am.
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7:00 pm April 27, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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certified mig welder, apprentice die maker, worked 2 jobs before going back to school. I still have a knowledge base that I hit up on the questionable projects. and I consider all suggestions, even yours.
but Ive been doing the best with what I got to work with. I don't exactly have the money to go out and buy the new stuff. Or do I have the equipment to build new stuff. I got just enough to repair what I have, and do a few custom jobs when necessary.
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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8:28 pm April 27, 2010
| Bucko
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mitch ok its a fact if u bend someting then bend it back its weeker as u have streched the gran structer in that area now the queston is how much? i dear say its very minner if it was not a very severe bend if tube has not colapest the tube i wouldnt worry about it but dont be sprised when rustys stuff brakes it isant the wholy grale of offroading
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9:12 pm April 27, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
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| posts 835 |  
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there was no collapsing, or kinking in the tube, nor any signs is streching in the powdercoat.
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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11:41 pm April 27, 2010
| notoriousDUG
| | Chicago | |
| Mall Crawler | posts 214 | |
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Post edited 4:59 am – April 28, 2010 by notoriousDUG
Electric Stooge said:
certified mig welder, apprentice die maker, worked 2 jobs before going back to school. I still have a knowledge base that I hit up on the questionable projects. and I consider all suggestions, even yours.
but Ive been doing the best with what I got to work with. I don't exactly have the money to go out and buy the new stuff. Or do I have the equipment to build new stuff. I got just enough to repair what I have, and do a few custom jobs when necessary.
Do you really want to compare resumes?
I will if you really want to…
Doing the best with what you have and sitting around thinking that your bent tie rod is as strong as what it was before are two different things. Plate it witha chunk of angle and stop having to worry about it.
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12:00 am April 28, 2010
| notoriousDUG
| | Chicago | |
| Mall Crawler | posts 214 | |
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Electric Stooge said:
there was no collapsing, or kinking in the tube, nor any signs is streching in the powdercoatNoen
None of thay matters.
If it was changed from it's formed shape it is not as strong asit was before; period.
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8:29 am April 28, 2010
| grantypanties218
| | rockford | |
| Grocery Getter | posts 49 | |
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why you guys getting your panties all in a bunch boys?
a round tube is not stronger than a solid bar but it does have a better weight to strength ratio than a solid. to me i see both sides of using a solid bar.
using a solid bar will be stronger than a tube but it will also be more weight hitting that rock plus i would think that with the added weight would take a toll on your steering joints such as TRE. round tubing is stonger than square.
i think the only real solution to your problem is to chop the axle off and go to ifs like me :) then you dont have steering down in the rocks its lurking behind a skid :) or to sleeve your tie rod
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8:35 am April 28, 2010
| notoriousDUG
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| Mall Crawler | posts 214 | |
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grantypanties218 said:
why you guys getting your panties all in a bunch boys?
a round tube is not stronger than a solid bar but it does have a better weight to strength ratio than a solid. to me i see both sides of using a solid bar.
using a solid bar will be stronger than a tube but it will also be more weight hitting that rock plus i would think that with the added weight would take a toll on your steering joints such as TRE. round tubing is stonger than square.
i think the only real solution to your problem is to chop the axle off and go to ifs like me :) then you dont have steering down in the rocks its lurking behind a skid :) or to sleeve your tie rod
I get my panties in a bunch anytime people perpetuate bad information on the internet and/or refuse to listen to anything that goes counter to what they want to hear.
You are correct about solid being stronger than tube; bar stock is always stronger but the weight savings or ease of use in the aplication are why it is choosen. I have never understood why people think otherwise.
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8:44 am April 28, 2010
| grantypanties218
| | rockford | |
| Grocery Getter | posts 49 | |
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god your so notorious dug
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10:42 am April 28, 2010
| Moparboy
| | DDO West Chapter Reaper Crew | |
| Rock Crawler | posts 1961 | 
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Alright, enough with the going back and forth on this topic. Dug you gave some good information that not everyone probably knew about, Mitch you are trying to find the easiest way for the time being to fix you tie rod. Plain and simple, I dont mind a little going back and forth but lets not start playing "who's got the bigger balls".
Mitch what are your plans for that tie rod, are you going to replace it or get 1 ton steering instead?
Evans :)
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Evans
DDO West chapter (Reaper Crew)
1999 Jeep Cherokee-Trail Rig
I Love Haters
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2:11 pm April 28, 2010
| Electric Stooge
| | DDO West/Platteville | |
| Moderator
| posts 835 |  
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I straitened out out with out kinking the tubing. So im gonna see how it will hold up to some high stress situations. if it holds up to what I put it threw, it will stay. then Re adressed When I start looking at axel swaps
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Mitch(1 of 3 stooges)
00' XJ, 5.5" Long arm, 32×11.5×15, 4.0l
If something electrical doesnt work right, throw a relay or 2 on it!
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6:36 pm April 28, 2010
| Moparboy
| | DDO West Chapter Reaper Crew | |
| Rock Crawler | posts 1961 | 
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Axle swap? I thought this was going to be your daily driver, have you changed your mind and figured it would be a waste of money and just build this one?
Evans :)
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Evans
DDO West chapter (Reaper Crew)
1999 Jeep Cherokee-Trail Rig
I Love Haters
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