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10:10 pm May 25, 2011
| Tony M
| | Grand Rapids, MI | |
| Mud Slinger | posts 545 | |
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Holy crap! I have a ton of stuff to check. Thank you guys for the help, and keep tossing those ideas out there. I'll keep you posted in my findings.
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11:26 pm May 25, 2011
| Ggg
| | Belvidere,IL | |
| Daily Driver | posts 186 | |
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LOL no problem Tony glad I could help. Remember you are getting a lot of info about your engine by going through all this diagnostics, and it hasn't cost you a dime. Imagine how much money would have been waisted by throwing parts at an engine that would have never run right until the cause and repair of your poor compression was realized. You could have thrown every carb in the world at this and it never would have run right with that low of compression and vacuum. Looking at the glass as half full, this is a great time to do some good for your engine both performance and longevity wise. Its not your only Jeep so you still have something to wheel if you wanted to. Take your time so the cost of a rebuild can be absorbed by your budget. Do lots of reading on the idiosyncrasies of AMC V8's such as poor oiling to the rear main, and timing chain and what the best fixes are for these issues. Maybe bore it out, raise the compression. Port match the heads to your manifold (note I didn't say port and polish). Enlarging the ports and polishing them is counter productive in low-mid rpm applications. Debur the oil drain back passages, etc. etc.
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98 TJ AX15/231sye, D60, Sterling 10.25 axles, Detroit lockers, 7" lift, Cummins 4bt engine, double triangulated 4 link rear, Y link radius arm front suspension, tires 37"-41".
48 CJ2A D30nt, AMC20nt w/lock right, Kaiser 231v6, T90/D18, 33x14 boggers
46 CJ2A D25, D41, L head Go Devil 4cyl, T90/D18, PTO, 6.5-16 tires.
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12:45 am May 26, 2011
| Xjay98
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| Mall Crawler | posts 390 | |
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IF you go the rebuild route maybe go with a small block chevy? Parts are abundent and you can find one just about anywhere. I know of a few in a pole barn. 2 of them have 4 bolt mains.
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12:00 am June 4, 2011
| Ggg
| | Belvidere,IL | |
| Daily Driver | posts 186 | |
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So whats the latest news on your engine Tony?
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98 TJ AX15/231sye, D60, Sterling 10.25 axles, Detroit lockers, 7" lift, Cummins 4bt engine, double triangulated 4 link rear, Y link radius arm front suspension, tires 37"-41".
48 CJ2A D30nt, AMC20nt w/lock right, Kaiser 231v6, T90/D18, 33x14 boggers
46 CJ2A D25, D41, L head Go Devil 4cyl, T90/D18, PTO, 6.5-16 tires.
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8:13 pm June 6, 2011
| Tony M
| | Grand Rapids, MI | |
| Mud Slinger | posts 545 | |
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Fixed and running 100% better!!!! I went to by buddies race shop and we played with the carb some more. Went up on the main jets 3 sizes, 3 sizes up on the squirter, readjusted the idle screws, but the biggest difference came from where I hooked the vacuum advance to. Apperantly, the port that Holley designates for the vacuum advance doesn't provide enough vacuum. So we switched it to manifold vacuum and the thing came to life. Burn outs in first gear without the brakes, and lighting them up in second!!! Its actually a little scary
I am however going to rebuild the motor in October. Right now I'm between two choices: stroking up the 360 to a 383, or de-stroking a 401 block. Stroking the 360 will make it a torque monster, but "shrinking" the 401 will make a fast revving powerhouse. Either one would be awesome, I'm just trying to figure on what route to go. I have access to both blocks so its just a matter of figuring out what parts would be cheaper.
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